When we buy a house, we will hire a professional decorator to repair the house. I believe you must have seen this phenomenon sometimes when supervising the decorator on site, that is tile levelingYes, we all know that if you want the ceramic tiles to be installed more closely and perfectly, the angle must be strict. Similarly, you must have seen them holding a wire to the stone when measuring the flatness. It depends on the verticality and so on. Of course, this method is also relatively traditional, especially in rural house repairs, it can be seen that masters do this. So, let’s learn today about how to level tiles and how to take out the tile leveler!
1. How to level ceramic tiles
1. Cement mortar leveling
Suitable for all kinds of ground and floor leveling before laying all kinds of floors. The leveling thickness is too thick at 25~35mm. If the proportion of cement mortar is incorrect, the surface layer will become powdery, sandy, dusty and cracked. There are some gaps between the floor (composite floor) and the leveling layer. When people step on it, the dust on the ground is forced to disperse around, and then escape from the expansion joints. It spreads out through the gaps in the skirting boards, causing dust to rise. In addition, hollowing will occur in places where the cement mortar is not leveled carefully.
2. Gypsum leveling
It can be used for local leveling without raising the ground level. The leveling thickness is about 5 to 20mm. It has almost no impact on the height of the room. It dries quickly, is relatively cheap, and is easy to construct. But it can only be used for leveling in a small area.
3. Self-leveling
No segregation (the various components in the cement mortar do not separate during the entire construction process and after the hydration reaction), no sand, no dust, no cracks; low shrinkage, usually 0.3 parts per thousand ~ 0.4. After the hydration reaction, no cracks will appear on the surface. Ordinary cement has a large shrinkage rate and is prone to cracks. The construction thickness is thinner at 2-5mm. The surface can be walked on 4-8 hours after construction, and the floor can be paved after 36-48 hours.But if you want to do it, you can’t do it locally, you need to do it for the whole house.
2. How to take out the tile leveler
The order and method of dismantling the leveling formwork should be carried out in accordance with the provisions of the panel design. Follow the principles of first supporting and then dismantling, first the non-load-bearing parts, then the load-bearing parts, and the top-down principle. It is strictly forbidden to use a sledgehammer when removing the formwork. And pry hard with a crowbar.
1. Remove the side formwork first and then the load-bearing formwork.
2. The large combined formwork should be dismantled in large pieces as a whole.
3. The supports and connectors should be disassembled together with the pieces, and the formwork should be disassembled and transferred along with the blocks. The formwork and concrete should not be damaged during removal.
4. The removed templates and accessories should be sorted and stacked neatly, and the accessories should be placed in the tool box.
After the detailed introduction above about how to do tile leveling and how to take out the tile leveler, you will have a better understanding of the content of tile leveling shared by Zhongtao Jun and Daji today. I have an in-depth understanding of it, so I am really a novice, and even people who don’t know how to do it can do it, so today’s content is shared, go ahead!
